Homeward Bound

 Spending seven even weeks in the Dordogne always seemed like a very long time during the planning stages. But that time has come and gone as we sadly contemplate traveling back to Colorado and resuming our real life in the states. As Kim mentioned earlier and my agreement followed that this has become "Our Happy Place". It is a foreign place not only in geography, language, and culture, but a tranquil hiatus from the more hectic life back home. 

Following our wonderful "friend filled" sendoff we gathered all our stuff and loaded everything for the drive to the Toulouse airport then two flights back to Denver.  

With all the bags we rejoiced in the absence of the bike boxes which normally fill the entire vehicle. We are thankful that Franck and Sandrine have provided us with a place of our own to store the bikes and other items we no longer need to transport. 

Kim took charge of wrapping the bikes in a plastic covering stuffed with many other items that will be there upon our arrival in 2027. 

Our lightened load was evident at the check in counter where we checked three bags leaving two carry on bags to navigate through to terminal and store in the overhead bins. No more visits to the oversized luggage area for check in or pick up.  

After settling in for the long flight from Munich to Denver a traditional glass of champagne initiated the ten hour flight home. Upon arrival in Denver we negotiated our reduced luggage to the van for the quick drive back to Vail. Home around six with the car unloaded and some bags unpacked before the jet lag set in so we called it a day. Even 24 hours of travel can't negate the great time in France, 2026.

We are already planning for 2027 with a major shift in our travel logistics. Next year we are hoping to fly from Vail to Chicago then on to Paris on the United Polaris. Even with the long drive from Paris to Castelnaud (which we can spit over two days) we expect this to be an easier alternative. Time will tell. 

Soire

 On our last full day in Castelnaud we decided on a short ride to Saint Laurent encompassing enough miles to reach our milestone of 900 miles for our 2026 stay. Depending on whose calculation (Kim or Alan) we were either one mile short or two past the mark. 

Included in this ride was a coffee stop at Darlene and Shaun's since they are not available to attend our soire (technically this is the French word for evening as used in the expression bon soire where the "e" is silent). Darlene is participating in an art exhibition in Domme where many of her pieces will be on display).

The group began arriving a little past 5 and were all gathered by the scheduled time of 5:30. Our plans were for an outdoor venue but the damp cold weather forced us inside. Not a problem since it is about the people and not the place. 

Left to Right: Thom, Mel, Ed, Mel, Alan, Kim, Sandrene, Franck, Natasha, and Tony. 

Beside our goodbye sendoff we were able to connect all the guests who had not met and exchange contact information so their friendships can blossom in our absence. 

Thom took the lead in conversing in French from the predominately English speaking contingent while Franck helped translate the English to French for Sandrene. So we ping ponged back and forth and I must admit that I caught a few French words here and there, but not enough to formulate a complete thought. What fun!

Kim assembled an authentic Charcutier emptying our fridge, cupboard, and wine closet which made for a delightful meal. With the wine contributions from those in attendance we made a big dent in the stash as evidenced by the row of empties that grew as the evening progressed. Ed brought a Brie laced with walnuts (it is harvest time) and figs from a friend's tree.  

The intensity of the conversation could be measured in the decibel level which approached the legal limit in the confined dining area. Outside would have been better for our ears to absorb but not provided the warmth the evening required. 

After three hours of stories our guests departed making the evening a grand finale for our seven week stay with plans to reassemble next September and adding to the group those who could not attend and new friends yet to be made. 

Viva La France.  

Last Big Climbing Day

 Today was a beautiful day so we succumbed to the climbing gods and set off on our last big climbing day. The modest mileage (25 miles) meant the elevation gain per mile was in the higher range. 

Started out to Beynac for the last view of the castle. The route around the back is longer but avoided any double digit grades. 

Back in town we wanted a photo of the restaurant we enjoyed our first meal out with the group. Will definitely be on the "A" list for next year. 

Kim could not resist a photo of the pink (aka rose colored) bike. Maybe next year we will come through when the coffee place is open. 

One last selfie to add to our extensive collection of cycling selfies. We think we finally figured how to use the timer so we can position the camera without having a finger on the shutter button. I guess an old dog does more than just get old. 

We have passed the birds numerous times on our way to and from La Roque. This being our final pass this year we got the photo she has been lusting over all these times. 

We headed past Montfort to climb the last hill before Carsac. Aside from the standard route along the velo greenway we opted for a deviation from the deviation to get back to the 703. A few more up and overs almost did us in. Once back in the flats we cruised toward La Roque for our morning coffee. Kim was hallucinating about some vanilla ice cream in place of the traditional coffee and pastry. Since it was already past 1 PM a morning coffee would not have been a morning coffee so this digression was within reason. Regardless of the time I stuck with a coffee and morning pastry - even though morning had come and gone. 

New Neighbors

 We noticed the other day that a man and woman were installing windows on a building at the base of our hill. Franck said they were a British couple who bought the place and were in the process of renovating/restoring it. On our way down to start our ride we noticed their rental van out front so stopped to talk. They are from Sussex, England and bought the place several years back. This massive building is a huge undertaking but they plan to move in early next spring. We invited them to meet some of their new neighbors at our goodbye soiree Friday evening but they were hitting the road for the long drive back home. We assured them we would return in September, 2027 and cultivate our friendship. So Gary and Ann will be added to our expanding friend group.

Since it was foggy this morning we decided to delay our start time and head to Cenac to get some additional items for our Friday event. We were on the road by 10 heading past Daglan for a short climb up to Campanac then back to Saint Pompon for coffee. With another 25 miles under our belt 850 miles was still in reach. 

There is always something going on here, which is similar to rural communities everywhere. Since October is worldwide breast cancer awareness month they are offering Poule Au Pot (chicken in a pot) on October 25th; too bad we will already be gone. At 16 euros it sounds like a great deal, but if you add in the return airfare we could buy several truckloads of Costco chickens and still have money for dessert. Maybe next year. 

As our nights in France dwindle we got a last minute dinner invitation from Thom and Mel. This is our last night out and glad it was only a short drive to their place in Daglan. Soup was the starter followed by salmon with a side of potatoes and veggies. A walnut tarte from our favorite patisserie in Cenac finished off the evening but the conversation kept going until the late night drive home brought things to a close. We will see them again for our Friday night wine and cheese gathering, and maybe earlier in the day as we finish our last ride for the French season. 

Counting Down - Five Rides to Go - Plus Balloon Extra

Last night we decided to have Tony and Dasha join us for dinner while Natasha was in Barcelona visiting her son. We tried a new place that is almost walking distance to the house and passed on the bike dozens of times. It was a great find especially since Kim was able to get her last dish of sweetbreads before heading home. Au Chalet Gourmand will be high our list when we return in 2027.   

Dasha is camera shy hiding under the table. 

In spite of the damp roads and cooler temperatures we forced ourselves to get out on the bikes, especially missing the last two days. Nothing special about the route except the deviation after riding to the Prats summit. A good climb deserves a good downhill, and this is one of the best for quiet, views, and absence of cars. We had the road to ourselves.

A long climb and almost 20 miles warrants a bread break. The area has many stacks of logs waiting for the transport truck and this log was a perfect bench. We savored one of our last cereal baguettes enjoying the total silence, expansive view of the valley below, and few rays of sun to keep us warm. 

The pavement may not be the best but this narrow lane means we will have the road to ourselves on the long downhill to Saint Pompon. 

This is the after photo of the sunflowers we photographed the last time we came this way. Sad, but sure there will be a new crop when we return next year.

Gathering hay for winter feeding is in full swing. The round bales appear more efficient than the traditional rectangular ones. They are larger and easier to transport. 

It was not the best weather requiring cap, scarves, and over gloves to stay warm on the flat ride back home. Hoping tomorrow's weather will provide more sun and dry roads earlier in the day. 

What goes up must come down... here is a sequence of balloon photos coming in for landing. 

Inflated... 

Deflated

Helene & Eric

 Our original plan was for this to be a riding day. Last minute change in plans when we got an invitation to lunch with a new Facebook friend who shares our passion for cycling, and the fact that this is the last opportunity to experience the Sarlat market... not the grand daddy of all markets but one that gets a lot of attention. 

After exhausting the Sarlat market which was limited to coffee at the same patisserie we tried last year we headed toward Cadouin for our rendevous with Helene and Eric at a restaurant within the cloister of an ancient abbey. We bypassed a tour of the church and abbey which we might visit again in the future. 

The church and adjacent Abbey.

The food was excellent with a three course meal for less than 50 euros per couple. Helene and Eric recently returned to their native France after an eight year stay in the east bay of San Francisco. They are the same generation as our kids and have two sons the same age of our grandkids. Their sons decided to continue their lives in the US with one at San Jose State and the other in Brunswick, Maine. In spite of the political and economic situation they intend to make America their home. 

Helene and Eric are nearing the end of their working lives and found a small village near Bergerac to call home. A long way from the nearest Costco but dramatic change from the intensity of bay area life. As we have learned trading a "high speed" life for the slower pace of rural France is a transformation hard to resist. It was wonderful to add another couple to our French friend group that we can connect with when we return in 2027. 

Brrrrr!

 

Another weather delay due to cold temperatures. The temperature did not reach the mid-50's until noon, but with all our jackets, gloves, and head scarves we ventured out. We knew that the early climbing would be a plus so by the time we crested the last hill we were warm enough to tackle the long downhill to Allas de Mines at river level. We did manage to get over 1000 feet of climbing on this short 18+ mile ride. 

There is not much to this village but this roundabout addition caught our eye. Most of the towns are decked out in pink ribbons, flags, or other symbols to draw attention to breast cancer awareness month... October every year.

Kim decided to show off her bike even though she aspired to have the decrepit one on display. It might be time to downgrade her wheels.

We are now a week into October so harvest season is upon us. This rig drives around the stand of walnut trees to gather the pods that have fallen from the trees. 

The front end scoop gathers the nuts along with other fallen leaves and debris. The first stage of processing separates the nut pods from twigs and such, then coerces the outer green enclosure from the actual nut within. 

One of the features of this ride it the winding path around the farms along the river. This one has the local signature offering - ducks for foie gras and duck confit. 

As the afternoon creeped up we decided to grab a coffee in Beynac then head home and call it a day. The overcast skies meant that the few miles back would be chilly so jackets and pants were a necessity. 

This coffee place was closed but was keen on keeping with the color of the month. We opted for the more expensive alternative along the river which treated us to the most expensive double espresso so far this trip. 

Rain Day

 After six days of riding the rain was a welcome relief. We decided to explore Les Eyzies which is about 30 minutes to the north west from Castelnaud. Although we had not been there before we were familiar with the place from all the Bruno books by Martin Walker. Aside from the Vezere river which runs along the town it is home to a prehistoric museum. 

The museum is filled with artifacts predating humans highlighting the stone tools that defined their existence. 

Many of the objects were excavated from the caves embedded in the hills looming above. 

We are always amazed by the structures built into these cliffs. 

Aside from the historic displays the Marrie (Town Hall) caught our eye. 

In traditional French style the museum closed for lunch at 12:30 so we decided we had seen enough so it was time to find a place to eat. This place had an extensive menu but the crepes won out over the routine burger. One with duck and the other with mushrooms and an egg. It was a delicious alternative.

A Very Long Day

 Morning fog made for a late start but with dinner tonight a shorter ride was appreciated. Since Tuesday is market day in Cenac the short Domme loop was in order. We figured we could add a little bit here and a little bit there to get the distance to 23 miles. A must for today was stopping at the ATM since our supply of Euros was almost depleted. Credit cards are accepted at most places but they normally have a 5 euro minimum so cash is needed for small purchases and coffee stops. The transaction fees and dismal exchange rate so a visit to the ATM is avoided. This year we wired our hosts more than the rental who handed us the difference in cash - no fees and optimal exchange rate offered by our bank. At $1.12 for a euro this is the best we have seen this year. Not sure if dollar is getting stronger or euro is getting weaker but glad to see the improvement. 

Darlene and Shaun hosted dinner at their place in Daglan. We got to see the progress they have made in their renovation. Although they have come a long way there is still more work to be done. They are hoping to be finished in the spring of 2027 so they can start renting the main house as a gite. By adding a pool they are hoping that this will improve bookings during the warm weather months. If 2026 is any indication it is essential especially when temperatures exceed 100 degrees. 

Their place is lovely in part because of Shaun's construction skills and Darlene's artistic flair. 

With the wine flowing and lively conversation the party did not break up until past 11. We were glad Tony did the driving so we did not have to negotiate the dark, windy six miles back to Castelnaud. They even drove us up the hill so finding our way from the driveway to the door was our only challenge. Good thing tomorrow is an off day so we can sleep in and have a leisurely morning before venturing out for the day. 

Pop Up Dinner Party

We were not planning another dinner this trip but our ears perked up when we heard that Tony and Natasha were hosting two "bloggers" at their gite here in Castelnaud. We had no idea what they "blogged" but were intrigued to hear more. 

Kim did a reprise of her now famous duck bolognaise. Tony loves the stuff and Kim goes into raptures when duck fat can enhance a dish. Seems like the place is overrun with ducks that are overfed for their foie gras. Big livers result in big duck breasts so once the meat is removed the fatty skin layer offers an abundance of opportunities. 

Pairing is an art in France and most every dish goes better with Ackerman (product of Loire dating back to 1812) - a sparkling alternative to overpriced Champagne at under $10 a bottle. 

From left to right: Tony, Natasha, Kim, Rachael, Michele, Alan, 

Rachael is from Manchester and Michele is from Liverpool, England. They share a passion for walking and hiking (not sure when one becomes the other) so they started a blog to share their favorite routes and experiences with like minded people over digital media. 

Michele is planning to walk the Camino De Santiago which is a network of routes terminating at the Tomb of the Apostle Santiago. The most popular route originates near the French/Spanish border and covers 764 Km made up of 33 stages. It exists since 1135, specifically in archives within the Codex Calixtinus which documents the distance to the tomb from many of the main European cities. Although she is starting at the border it extends deep into France where if runs through Pons, one of our many stops several years ago. In the center of town is a memorial to the ancient pilgrims who passed this way many centuries ago. Not quite as challenging as the Appalachian trail running from Georgia to Maine it is still a massive undertaking. More than the ground you cover its significance is embodied in the people you meet along the way. We hope it will be a successful and rewarding accomplishment. 

Not sure of the actual interactions that led to their visit to the Dordogne they are hoping to organize a walking/hiking group to explore the area. We see many hiking groups along our rides especially to the hills and castles lining the river.   

 

Exploring the Gardens

We are always looking for places to explore when the weather does not cooperate or spent too many days in the saddle. A friend suggested that we visit Eyrignac Gardens, a short drive north of Sarlat. It is noted for its topiaries and groomed hedges and walk ways.  

The 500+ year old estate is perched on the top of a hill within the expansive grounds and surrounding countryside. It is far from everywhere so it was recommended to arrive midday and enjoy a leisurely lunch before touring the grounds. Great idea! 

Kim opted for the mushroom omelet ...

and a traditional burger for me. Both accompanied with frites and salad. It was a bit chilly so we had our morning coffee to finish the meal.

There were 22 stations that took us around the plantings, through the kitchen and flower gardens, all winding between ponds and water features. 

The animal topiaries and sculptured hedges requires a large year round staff of clippers and lots of mowers to keep the grass trimmed. 

Although originally developed in Medieval times a more recent addition is this manicured grass strip extending toward the valley below. Would be fun to land here in a suitable short field airplane. 

Most of the buildings date back to the 1700's or earlier but the accommodations are still used by the owning family or resident gardening staff.