The HOWS!

 Now that you know the "whys" for our return to the Dordogne for the fourth time, it is time to review the "hows". 

We started planning our 2026 adventure during a drinking and eating gathering with our hosts (aka: landlords). Franck and Sandrine stopped by the evening before our 2025 departure when we suggested that we block out six weeks in 2026. However, when we reviewed the calendar the question arose: "Why come back so soon?". Without a family obligation to consider and late October biking in Vail iffy (snow has a way of arriving early, or like last year almost not at all) we extended our stay to seven weeks - leaving August 30th and returning October 16th. Not clear that the weather there will be more conducive for riding, but more conducive for eating and drinking. 

 The twisting plot continues. Staying in one place is better than two, but the overarching logistical challenge is packing and assembling the bikes and the anxiety over will the bikes arrive without damage. So, a Eureka moment. Since we are hoping that our yearly trips will continue for a long time we considered buying another set of bikes which we would leave in France permanently. Less to transport and simplified logistics. So we will take and leave our existing bikes somewhere (friend with space) then buy another set for US based riding. Since we have committed to house sitting in the Bay Area for friends the first three weeks in November getting replacements became an urgent matter. 

There are also several other benefits beyond the transportation. For starters, without the bulky and heavy bike to transport we can fly out of Eagle rather than driving to DIA and parking a car for seven weeks. Also means that we can rent a smaller car; saving money on both ends. 

We located two Trek Domane bikes on the internet which were the right size, could be configured with the same gearing (actually lower gearing for the steep uphills and probably the last gear to age adjustment before e-bikes find a way to our garage). Kim's bike will be shipped on August 20th with mine following in a few days and hopefully arrive so we can check

them out before we leave. 

Kim's

Alan's

 We are about ten days from departure so it is time to start gathering our biking and personal stuff as we plow through multiple checklists. But we still have a handful of rides before we go so it is a good time to install new tires/tubes, check brake pads, wax chains (we are taking two this year so no waxing while we are away - another simplification), and a good washing to leave Colorado dirt behind. 

Stick with a winner!

Stick with a winner!

We started traveling to France back in 2016. Back then we spent one week at six different locations cycling in the most interesting and picturesque places we could find. All our destinations were in rural areas and noted for the scenery, wine, food, and places of interest. Over the years since then we visited the Loire Valley, Champagne region, Provence, Normandie, Brittainy, Canal de Midi, WWI battlefields, and other interesting places in between. We avoided big cities with a passion (Paris especially) which may have other appeals but biking is not one of them. 

Along our French odyssey we stumbled upon the Dordogne region with a one week stay in Saint Julian de Lampon situated on the Dordogne river and gateway to the Dordogne river valley. Our time there opened our eyes to the beautiful rolling hills, winding secondary roads, moderate climbs, charming villages, and castles or chateaus on every corner. During the middle ages that area was fought over by the French and English as exemplified by the 100 years war (116 years from 1337 to 1452) among other conflicts. 

After one week in the area we were hooked. The following year, 204 we split our time between a small village to the west called Castelnaud and small village in Provence. In 2025 we decided that moving around the country like gypsies was too hard on our aging bodies so we parked ourselves for all of our six week stay in France. 

View with castle taken from hot air balloon

View without the castle.

After tedious AirBNB searches Kim found this house perched on the hill below the castle. The accommodations were ideal offering three bedrooms on two levels, with spacious living area, upgraded modern kitchen, dining sun porch, courtyard sitting area, and terrace looking east down the Dordogne river valley. The original structure was built in 1777 but upgraded with modern amenities like indoor plumbing, ample electrical service, and WIFI internet connections. Complete with a dish washer, clothes washer/dryer, and acceptable French sized queen bed measuring 160 cm (63"). 

The view from the terrace sealed the deal. Overlooking the small village of Castelnaud below we can watch the balloon launches in early morning or evening twilight. Ballooning has become popular world wide but owes its beginning to the French Montgolfier brothers who launched their first hot air balloon in 1783. During the warmer months the river is a hot bed of canoeing/kayaking and even a river cruise ship docked in the nearby town of La Roque. 

But I digress. We are here for the cycling so other activities take a back seat to our daily rides; weather permitting. In our past more adventuresome days we would load the bikes into our car and ride wherever our obsession would take us. The one feature of this location that brings us back is the ample variety of rides that start and end from our house. An added luxury we covet. 

A tourist is a casual visitor that likes the place but has little connection with the people. We graduated on our first trip to the area when we connected with an Australian couple Darlene and Shaun that I met on their YouTube channel. All it took was two bottles of bubbly to cement our friendship and start our quest to create a social life here. Another introduction to Natasha and Tony (British expats) doubled our friend group at the start of the second year. We met Ali and Rob when we noticed their bikes along a wall in La Roque and started a conversation (in English) about bike routes in the area. Ed and Mel came to us by way of Facebook, and Thom we met during a coffee stop in Daglan and his wife Mel at a dinner party at Darlene's and Shaun's (photo below).

Clockwise: Darlene, Thom, Mel, Shaun, Kim, Alan

After several meals at local restaurants it was time for Kim to host our first dinner party at our place. Clockwise: Darlene, me, Shaun, Kim, Tony, Natasha.